“You cannot go! It is dangerous. The weather is bad. You cannot see the path, you will get lost! Read this notice….”
My friend and me stared at the Hotel concierge as he said the most discouraging words. He kept aside the tray which he was carrying and waited for our decision for the D day.
We read the most saddening Govt. Notice for trekkers, climbers to not get atop the mountain in harsh rainy conditions. And to take a local guide along the trail.
It was raining cats and dogs, McLeodganj seemed to be on a high!
We asked about the Guide whereabouts to which the concierge happily gave the details and made sure that we won’t leave without the guide. 🙂
As the rain pelted against the window panes, we shared the news with our third fellow trekker.
After analysing the pros and cons, we decided to take on the trail but with a guide after all, trekking in the rains on the Himalayas is a risky affair all the more!
We hit the sack hoping that the next day was sunny enough to make it to the beautiful Dhauladhar ranges.
Morning turned out to be sunny and magnificent! The quaint town of McLeodganj was getting ready for the usual hustle bustle after a heavy downpour. But we did get a guide who accepted our proposal to take us along and we headed for the trail right away.
Triund trek is the most beautiful and scenic trek in Himachal Pradesh. The trek starts from Galu Devi temple, 2 km ahead of McLeodganj. Nestled in the Kangra valley, it offers a hike through Deodar, Rhododendron forests and of course gives a magnanimous view of the mighty Dhauladhar range and the Kangra valley.
We met our guide who happened to be very courteous and we gained insight about Himachal Pradesh as well through him. We started the hike close to 9:45 AM after registering our names at the Start point, a protocol closely followed by the Forest Department.
After an hour’s walk along the deodar trees, rhododendron trees we reached a stony path from where we could see the Dharamsala Cricket stadium, the stadium at the highest altitude in India at about 4780 feet above sea level.
Further walk through stony paths, we reached the Magic View Cafe which is the oldest cafe. A cup of hot tea soothed our throats and energized us for the rest of the journey. The clouds played around and brought in a slight chill to the air around. Being a Monday not many trekkers, local crowd were present on the trail. But a lot of them were on the way back after spending the Sunday night at Triund Hill.
The stony path was now damp owing to a nearby small waterfall. But when it rains, the path would be very risky to tread upon. The villagers who were on the trail, time and again advised us not to walk at the edge of the path owing to uneven ground and loose stones.
As we hiked up the hill we came across yet another cafe Scenic View. With tad bit of a rest we hiked towards the last leg of the trail- The famous 22 curves before the Triund peak. It was a hike along stony paths, mushroom laden trunks of trees, lovely flowers with the mesmerising dew on the petals. The clouds did cover the trail on and off.
After a hiking for four hours, I reached the peak. A lush green meadow ran across the hill. A couple of cafes were present which catered to the needs of the few then trekkers.
As we strolled about the meadow, the clouds impulsively gave way to the Himalayas. The slightly snow clad Dhauladhar ranges came into view. It was a marvelous sight. As the clouds played about, we could catch a glimpse of Mcleodganj, Bhagsu way below.
After a sumptuous lunch of Roti, Rice and yummy Dal, we headed towards our tent with a view of the Kangra valley and the Dhauladhar ranges towards the side.
After a long stroll up and down the meadow, we retired for the night under a cloudy sky. We woke up to a not so cloudy day and welcomed the sunrise!
As we bid goodbye to the ranges and the valley, McLeodganj ushered us to explore the quaint town and the Dalai Lama Temple…. More on in the next post….
Well that was the end to the lovely Triund trek. Plan for it and enjoy the enthralling journey and the lovely mountains of course!
“Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the summit is the answer to the mystery why we climb.” (Greg Child)
So the quote says it all but what is the mystery?
A peek into my initial days of trekking…
Well, I started trekking just for the heck of it, for pure adrenalin rush and for the amazing view at the summit. It held good, be it the Western Ghats in Karnataka, Kerala & Maharashtra. Since I was in my early 20s, I loved racing up the mountain!
On top of Edakkal caves, Wayanad, Kerala
Karnala Hill fort, Navi Mumbai, Maharashtra
Matheran, Navi Mumbai, Maharashtra
Amongst the clouds, KumaraParvatha, Karnataka
View Point 1, Goechala Pass, Sikkim with Mt. Kanchenjunga in the background
On the way back from Manokarma Base camp(Stok Kangri Expedition), Ladakh, J&K
But after a gap of 6 years my idea and purpose of trekking changed. Thanks…
Article published in Deccan Herald Newspaper 25-Nov-2015
It was mid-September when I got the opportunity to cherish the beauty of the Western Ghats. Rolling hills, lush landscape, beautiful pink flowers, dew-filled grasslands; it was a view right out of a picture postcard. I was at Kuduremukh, a mountain range and name of a peak located in Chikkamagaluru district. The name literally means ‘horse-face’ in Kannada and refers to a picturesque view of the side of the mountain.
Along with my fellow trekkers, I started from Bengaluru at night to reach Kalasa, a temple town in Chikkamagaluru, the next morning. From there we hired jeeps to take us to a home-stay. The ride to the home-stay was on a slushy uphill road, which was scary but thrilling. It was drizzling and the weather was pleasant. We freshened up and had a light breakfast, which was sumptuous. Later the owner of the home-stay gave us a home-made lotion to apply on our legs to keep the leeches away as we were going to be in the leech zone for a few hours. We started our trek, which was initially wayward into the forest and across small streams. After a couple of hours we reached the grasslands and they looked beautiful. It was drizzling; the landscape was adorned with rain drops, which looked like pearls on the flowers and grass. We saw the clouds pass by and I was mesmerised by the beauty and serenity of the place.
The trail wound its way around the ranges and then we came upon another small forest. It was also a slushy and a wet trail as it was raining. The highlight of the trail was obviously the leeches who were waiting for us. There were zillions of them and every 100 metres we trekked, we stopped for a couple of minutes just to shake them off, be it real or imaginary ones!
The final mile was up the peaks but by this time it was raining cats and dogs and the path was very slushy. We climbed it nevertheless and then came upon a short, straight path leading to the peak. I presumed that the view from here was amazing but as it was cloudy and raining, we could not see anything.
There was no shelter at the top so we just sat by the rocks, hydrated ourselves with juice and a bar of chocolate. It was a serene place. We walked down a bit and stopped at a clearing. There was a stream flowing by and we had our packed lunch of mango rice.
It was delicious. After resting for about 15 minutes, we started our downward trek. Trekking down was very difficult as the path was slippery. After falling down a couple of times, I held on to a good pace.
We finally reached the forest; the streams that we passed earlier were now overflowing. We made it through, together. It was getting dark and we had to rush to the home-stay.
The pain in my legs and exhaustion were pulling me down but we made it back. We tended to our leech bites and had dinner and chatted away into the night. I thoroughly enjoyed the trek as it was my first monsoon trek. It brought a feeling of euphoria and was a thrilling experience. What can I say, I was floored by the beauty!
I tossed and turned in my sleeping bag. I could hear the menacing wind whooshing against the tent. The freezing cold was getting on my nerves. I was burning with fever and I wanted to get a fair amount of sleep at least so that I could make my way to the next camp the following morning. I had spread the DOWN jacket on my sleeping bag, hopeful that it would keep me warm but it was way too cold. Sleeping at 14500 feet was getting very very difficult. I wondered how I would survive the next 8 hours until dawn. I opened my eyes hoping to find some warm clothing, I tried getting up but something was obstructing me. As I switched on my torch and looked about, the tent was all over my legs and it was wet. And I called out to my friend and whispered “Kesu! I think the tent has fallen off.”
Hemis National Park
Three days earlier we had embarked upon the Trek to Stok Kangri!
With wavering courage we decided to trek a bit of Markha Valley and then trek to Stok Kangri.
We travelled to Zingchen by road from Leh. The ride ended up in a dusty mountain path. The trek trail started from there and we had now entered the Hemis National Park, eastern part of Ladakh, J&K. The park is the abode of snow leopards and the only park in India to the north of Himalayas.
The trail started with a rocky path and with the sun seething hot rays down on us, the trek became very exhausting even with the trail being flat! We stopped for lunch after two hours and gobbled the contents in our lunch box.
Later, the trail had a gradual ascent and before long we were at Rumbak. Instead of moving ahead to the village, we took a deviation and headed towards Ganda La base camp.
The trail to Ganda La was a winding path across the mountains, the flora on the mountains were of various and vivid colours, it was a lovely sight to see.
The last mile from Yurutse to Ganda La camp felt very very exhausting, the sun had already set and I clung on to my trekking pole and strode ahead and thinking about when I would hit the sack. After reaching the tent and gulping down hot lemon tea, I warmed myself in the tent and soothed my aching muscles. We had a quick dinner but sumptuous one with chicken and rice. It was the perfect end to a long day.
The next morning was beautiful. Azure sky, brown mountains all around and the stream flowing very near to the base camp. While some of us deliberated on the trek to the Ganda La Pass owing to a very exhausting trek the previous day, we then finally reached a conclusion that we as a team will move on.
Though I was a little hesitant initially, I finally made up mind to at least get to the top of the mountain, if not the pass. I slogged along the trail, it was a steep climb. I knew my body was giving away. But I wanted to figure out how my body would react and whether I would be able to make it to 16300 feet. Because in the next couple of days I would be trying to get on to 20000 feet, all I wanted to know then was whether I could get myself out there.
It was a hard climb, I was half way up the mountain when the last of the trekkers from the base camp brushed past me. One of the guides, from the other trekking group,on the way asked me,
“Juley! where are you from?”
I replied with my fading breath.
He looked around, “Your team members are already way ahead I see, you got to hurry up!”
I said,”I am trying to.”
He again looked at me and said,” You know, you can find marmots and snow leopards out here.”
I looked at the vast expanse of the valley and obviously I could see Marmots here and there but snow leopards now!
“I mean do you find them here, like now now.” I was excited.
He looked at me and said, “Maybe!”
Wow! This was already one hell of a climb and it was getting all the more exciting!
I was determined to reach the mountain. I could see our guide, Lobzang waiting for me at the top. I panted and trailed past the last winding path and there I was, on the top looking at the beauty all around.
I had no energy to make it till the pass and told the guide to carry on and that I would meet him on the way back down.
The view was mesmerising with mountains all over, the valleys looked beautiful and so did the snow clad mountains. I soaked in the silence and the beauty.
I trudged back down the mountain. My solo trek to Yurutse had just begun.
With no one at my beck or call, surrounded by majestic mountains and the expanse of the valley below, I was all alone but I was one with nature.
I stopped to click a picture or two. I suddenly had a anxiety pang, what if a snow leopard comes along, what would I do?
I buried the thought yet looking out for a leopard to pounce on me but the mesmerising mountains, the winding terrain and the sun high above my head held me onto a blissful thought. I basked in the silence of the place and all I could hear was my heart beating and the wind blowing at my face. I felt so puny amongst the wonders of nature.
I caught a glimpse of Marmots running around and it was a wonderful sight to see, it looked as though they were racing me down the path. Before I got on to the other side of the stream, I could hear something on the ridge of the mountain- was it a marmot…. snow leopard?, I don’t know even to this day. 😉
I reached the stream enthusiastically, I could now see the Ganda La base camp nearby. I almost sprained my leg, the rock on which I took support fell into the stream but somehow made a quick jump in the nick of time. Music was being played at the canteen but the valley was silent and I could hear only the gushing of water.
I moved past the base camp, I could now see a gaggle of geese running ahead the path and up the valley. I contemplated on the flora on the mountains and the green coloured mountain looked weird but beautiful. Before long, I reached Yurutse to catch up with my team members. After about 30-40 minutes the others came along with the guide.
We marched ahead to our next camp for the night- Rumbak.
Rumbak is a village at 13200 ft with a few households and also has a number of home-stays. After reaching the village we still had to walk a lot to get to our camp. It was on the outskirts of the village. I could sense my legs on the verge of giving away and my willpower was on the last reserve.I trudged along to get to the tent as soon as possible. The tents were put up near to the stream and we refreshed ourselves with hot lemon tea and biscuits.
My body ached and I was way low on energy and I wanted to get back to Leh.
Daunting STOK LA!
But the morning had different plans for me and now filled with hope, I strode on with new zest and energy.
The mountains were utterly fascinating, each step of the trek brought me face to face with the splendour of the mountains. After walking for about an hour, we lost our way and we waited for the guide to light our path. As the guide took us on to the valley and then up a mountain, I could see the big daunting mountain. I could not make out the path way ahead but it seemed like a big wall.
I rested a bit before I could take on the gigantic mountain. I initially thought it would be a straight path obviously uphill but after heaving myself up the winding path I knew this was a serpentine trail and with each turn of the path it would get all the more difficult. I dragged my body up the path, rested a bit and then got on, the trail was never ending.
It was with great will power that I scaled up the mountain. My body was now numb to the pain and cold. My breathing was getting worse. I could feel my lungs yelping for more oxygen. It was the toughest climb of my life. But when I reached the top, the Stok La pass, the pain, the difficult climb was all worth it. The pass was at 15900 feet and it was very windy. We had literally climbed about 4000ft. Phew! Had a quick lunch before we headed down the valley to reach our camp. The Ladakh range now was colourful with bright orange and yellow flora. It was beautiful.
As we headed down, the valley was utterly cold. After meeting the team at the camp, we all rejoiced our strength and patience to make it to Stok La.
We started off around 9AM the next day. As we trekked across one of the mountains and reached a pass, I saw some white particles floating about. As I turned back, it was SNOWING!
My heart skipped a beat, it was my first snowfall experience and that too on the Greater Himalayas! I could see the mountain tops covered with snow and it was snowing right into my face. I sunk in the moment because this was one memory that would be very close to my heart forever. The wonders of nature take your breath away and all that remains is bliss and love for nature, in your heart. We made to the next pass to catch up with the entire team and rejoiced the snowfall.
We later trudged down the valley. The last mile took a toll on me. I was literally shivering and down with fever. I could feel my body giving away. All I wanted was warmth and the luxury of a bed and pillow.
And yes the tent was way down on us. We called out to our trek leader. And then the guide with the helpers came along and set up the tent. As we got out of the tent, the brown mountains we had seen in the evening were all covered with snow and it was the weight of the snow on our tent that had sagged it. The mountains looked splendid, each with a snow cap! The rest of the night was a struggle to keep myself warm and waited for the morning, to make up my mind on my next course of action. As I walked out of the tent, I was welcomed with the beautiful sight of snow clad mountains. It was marvellous.
We were all dejected that we could not go any further as there was a thunderstorm and as the guide pointed out, the path to Stok Kangri would be dangerous and could turn out to be fatal.
So we took an unanimous decision and packed up and headed to Stok village. The trek back was a straight path with a few uphill trails. Before long we were at one of the mountain passes where we could see the Stok village nestled in between the mountains. On the trail we saw footprints which seemed to belong to the leopard! Well the leopards seemed to be around.
We were happy we were closer to civilization and as we reached the outskirts of Stok village and our camp, we rejoiced the night with sumptuous food and sung our hearts out into the night.
Though we could not complete our trek to Stok Kangri, we all braved enough to take the plunge. It was one of my personal toughest trek and I have learnt a lot more about life in these 5 days of the challenging trek.
Well hoping to make it again when the chance comes along and rightfully get stoked at Stok Kangri!
“Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the summit is the answer to the mystery why we climb.” (Greg Child)
So the quote says it all but what is the mystery?
A peek into my initial days of trekking…
Well, I started trekking just for the heck of it, for pure adrenalin rush and for the amazing view at the summit. It held good, be it the Western Ghats in Karnataka, Kerala & Maharashtra. Since I was in my early 20s, I loved racing up the mountain!
But after a gap of 6 years my idea and purpose of trekking changed. Thanks to the Himalayas!
For one thing, my physical stamina wasn’t great 😉 so it slowed me enough on the Himalayan trail to enjoy and feel with all my heart the serenity around and paved a way to find my inner peace!
Down to the big question of why I trek?
1. I trek because the journey is spectacular than the destination.
2. I trek for I feel alive when I am on the mountains.
3. I trek as each step I take forward just scares the hell out of me, as it is a thin line between life and death and that my friend, is the ultimate adrenalin rush!
4. I trek as I can feel my soul and feel one with nature.
5. I trek because the journey is a great learning experience about myself, the nature, the people around.
6. I trek because I learn to be humble, forgiving and patient and it surely helps to live a fulfilling life down in the plains.
7. I trek because I learn to appreciate life!
8. I trek as I get a chance to explore the world beyond the cities or beyond my comfort zone.
9. I trek because I literally get to learn the value of a breath! The value of Living!
10. I trek as it brings me the pleasure of being one with the mountains, the rivers, the sky, the earth, the wind….
11. I trek because it makes my dreams come true of achieving the unachievable and makes way for a hell lot of memories.
12. I trek because at the end of it, I am stronger(not physically 😉 ) and a much better person(I hope so)
13. I trek so that I get to see a whole new me during the trek and of course after the trek as well.
15. I trek because even after treading and toiling in narrow, rugged, rocky, slippery, uphill, downhill paths……… the mountains give you amazing, spectacular and fabulous views!
16. I trek because I find myself after getting lost!
17. I trek as it helps to see my problems in a different way and the fact that they no longer remain problems after I get back to the plains!
18. I trek as I get to interact with people from a different culture, country, age group, perspectives but who are treading on the same path as me.
19. I trek because I want to feel the magic of nature.
20. I trek as I get to feel the silence of the mountains, and that place is what I call heaven!
Thanks to the treks to Goecha La Pass in Sikkim and the unfinished(owing to bad weather) trek to Stok Kangri in J&K, I have got the courage to look upon life with my heart and discover the unknown but thanks to my mind for playing an eminent role in helping me through those treks when physically I was broken.
Well this is why I trek and hope to do so in the near future as well. (‘Hoping against hope hopen’)
I am sure trekkers out there would resonate the same feeling as above but for those who have not tried trekking and are keen….. all I would say is, ‘Go for it and experience the mountains….. for you never know, you may find what you have been looking for all your life.’
“Because in the end , you won’t remember the time you spent working in an office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain” – Jack Kerouac
Article published in Deccan Herald on 24th April 2015.
To quote Ruskin Bonds: “It is always the same with mountains. Once you have lived with them for any length of time, you belong to them. There is no escape.”
It was always my dream to trek the Himalayas, to be amongst the mighty and majestic mountains and to be lost in their magnificence. I am elated that I got an opportunity to do so and I have fallen in love with the Himalayas.
GOECHA LA or GOECHA PASS is a Himalayan mountain pass in the state of Sikkim. At an elevation of 16,200 ft, Goecha La serves as the gateway to Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.
We were a group of 11 (experienced and novice) trekkers who started off the 9-day trek to Goecha La. We reached Yuksom, a small village in West Sikkim at an elevation of 6000ft with few houses, monasteries, hotels and restaurants. The nearest airport to Yuksom is at Bagdogra in West Bengal and Yuksom can be reached via Siliguri(WB) by road.
The start of the Goecha La trek is a walk through the village of Yuksom and then the trail passes around the mountain. Later we reached the Kanchendzonga National Park which is the gateway to Goechala and then the trail runs through lush mountains and bridges and is a gradual climb through the oak forests. We reached Sachen and rested for the night. The next day we took on another steep climb to reach Tshoka, the next base camp.
The trail from Tshoka-Dzongri is one of the most beautiful trails as it is a log trail and from April to May, the trail is filled with rhododendrons. On nearing Dzongri, we could see many mountain ranges and they were breath-taking. From the Dzongri Mountain Top, the sunrise was beautiful and all the mountain ranges along with Kanchenjunga can be viewed.
Later the trail runs through lush meadows where Mt. Pandim seems up close and looks majestic. We then came to Kokchurang where the Prek Chu river flows along and it is such a beautiful sight that we were enchanted by the place. We finally reached Thansing, the next base camp, where on one side there are snow-clad mountains and on the other a black stony mountain where you can catch a glimpse of Mt.Kanchenjunga. The view in the night is mesmerising-it is filled with zillions of stars and Mt. Pandim is brightly lit by the moon. Further ahead the mountains get closer and the terrain became rocky as we reached the next base camp, Lamuney.
On the last day of the trek to Goechala pass, we had to wake up very early as we had to reach the first view point before sunrise. I woke up to the most marvelous and memorable sight: a star-studded sky, zillions of stars just so close to you and the snow clad mountains were brightly shining in the moonlight. I was just mesmerized by the beauty of it. And the weather was extremely cold. The path goes right next to the Samiti Lake which is a glacial lake which is turquoise in color. We were just in time on one of the mountains(first view point) to catch the beauty of the Kanchenjunga as it had turned golden(literally) by the first rays of the sun. The experience-inexplicable.
We were all elated on our achievement and enjoyed the final trek back to Yuksom. I just rejoiced every single moment as it was going to be the last day amongst the mighty Himalayas.
Those were the most amazing days of my life. When I recall the entire journey, it just feels like I have lived a Life! The beauty, the tranquility, the rolling hills, cool streams, bridges, the star-studded sky, lush landscapes, feeling of being one with nature and yourself- what more can one ask !
It was mid-September, when I got the opportunity to cherish the beauty of the Western Ghats. Rolling hills, lush landscape, pink flowers blooming, grasslands ahead : It was a view right out of a picture postcard. The view made the trek, all the more beautiful and worth it.
I was at Kuduremukh, also spelled Kuduremukha, a mountain range and name of a peak located in Chikkamagaluru district, Karnataka, India. The name Kuduremukha literally means ‘horse-face’ (in the Kannada language) and refers to a particular picturesque view of a side of the mountain that resembles a horse’s face.
It is a mountain range in Western Ghats and is a tropical wet evergreen forest.
Along with my fellow trekkers, I started from Bangalore on a Friday night to reach Kalasa, which is a temple town in Chikkamagaluru district, on Saturday morning. From there we hired jeeps to take us to the home-stay. The ride to the home stay was on a slushy uphill road, which was scary but thrilling. It was drizzling and the weather was pleasant. We freshened up, had a light breakfast which was sumptuous. Later the owner of the home-stay, gave us a home-made lotion to apply on our legs to keep the leeches away as we were going to be in the leech-zone for a few hours that day.
We started our trek which was initially wayward into the forest and across small streams. After a couple of hours we reached the grasslands and they looked beautiful. It was drizzling, the lush landscape was adorned with the rain drops which looked like pearls on the flowers and grass. We saw the clouds passing by and I was mesmerized by the beauty and serenity of the place. It then started raining but we continued our upward trek on the grasslands to reach the peak.
The trail wound its way around the ranges and then we came upon a small forest on the way. It was a slushy and a wet trail. The highlight of the trail was obviously the leeches which were waiting for a ride on us. There were zillions of them and each 100m of the trail we trekked, we stopped for a couple of minutes just to shake off the leeches, be it real or imaginary ones. But the feeling of being one with nature surpassed all the leeches and the imminent pain in the legs.
The final mile was up the peaks but by this time it was raining cats and dogs and the path was very slushy. We climbed it nevertheless and then we came upon a short straight path leading to a small hill. I presume that the view from here is amazing but as it was cloudy and raining, we could not see anything. We climbed the final peak but we could not see anything around. It was freezing cold and was raining heavily. There was no shelter at the top. We just sat by the rocks, hydrated ourselves with Frooti and a bar of chocolate. It was a serene place. We walked down a bit where we stopped at a clearing. There was a stream flowing by and we had our packed lunch of mango rice. It was delicious. After resting for about 15 mins, we started off our downward trek.
Trekking down was very difficult, as the path was slippery, slushy and water was trickling down the paths. After slipping and falling down a couple of times, I held on to a good pace. We finally reached the forest, the streams that we passed were now over flowing. We made it through, together. It was getting dark and we had to rush to the home stay. The pain in my legs and exhaustion was pulling me down. But finally made it to the home stay just before it was pitch dark.We put our jackets and shoes next to a bonfire so that the leeches, if any, would fall out.
We were all exhausted and famished. My body was torn apart, I was trekking after 6 long years and I could see that I had lost stamina over the years. We later tended to our leech bites and had dinner and chatted away into the night.
I thoroughly enjoyed the trek, it was my first monsoon trek. Though I was trekking after 6 long years, it brought back the feeling of euphoria and it was a thrilling experience.
” We know what we are, but know not what we may be” – William Shakespeare
Well the uncertainty of completing the trek always bogged me , for KP being the toughest trek in South India, I was apprehensive about the whole trek.
It was mid-December that we decided to scale Kumara Parvatha (KP). We planned to go in late January as the weather would be perfect for the trek .
Kumara Parvatha or Pushpagiri , 1712mts(5617ft) is the highest peak in Pushpagiri Wildlife Sanctuary in Western Ghats of Karnataka. It is the 2nd highest peak in Kodagu district and 6th highest in Karnataka. The best time to trek is between Oct – Feb as the weather is cool and perfect.
We were a group of 8, amateur and experienced trekkers brave enough to take on the road ahead .Kukke Subramanya is a small temple town which is 230km from Bangalore. Subramanya temple is one of the pristine pilgrimage locations in India. Overlooking the temple is the Shesha Parvatha and Kumara Parvatha peaks. And is a popular trekking destination owing to KP. We boarded the Kukkeshree Travels from Bangalore on a Friday night ( 11:45 PM) and reached Kukke at 8:30 AM , Saturday.
There are a few hotels about 500mts from the bus stand . We took a couple of rooms in one of the hotels to freshen up and get ready for the trek. And after a mini breakfast at one of the hotels just opposite the bus stand we started off at around 11:00AM.
The trail is of 13kms one way. The trek is difficult and challenging as it is a steep climb throughout and the last 7kms of the trail is under the open sky through grasslands so, with the sun beating down on you, it is really exhausting ! Bhattaramane is the only Oasis / house you can find throughout the trail and is found after completing 6kms of the trek. And it is the only point of access to Food, water, accommodation( if you have not got tents of your own). And the stay at Bhattaramane has to be booked well in advance as it accommodates around 15-16 people alone. For all the amateurs, the best bet would be stay at Bhattaramane before you go on further ahead. Aiming to take on the peak in one day is utterly stressful and the chances of reaching the peak and enjoying the view may be lost.
The trail starts right next to the temple and leads to a winding road of about 1.5kms where the forest area begins which marks the start of the Kumara Parvatha trek.
The trail is through a dense forest but its an uphill climb and it drains out all the energy. We enjoyed the trail thanks to all the snacks, Coke, glucose water which was the most refreshing drink ever. After almost 2.5hrs we rested at a big stone boulder to soothe our aching muscles , the limelight was the CUBAN COFFEE ! 🙂 After quenching our thirst we started again and after 45mins we reached the top where the trail gives way to open skies and grassland terrain. The sun was right on us which made it all the more difficult as we were thoroughly exhausted. 3 of us planned to rest for a while at a small area covered with trees.
After a quick drink of glucose and electoral and a few clicks 😉 we started again with all our might. But much to our surprise , Bhattaramane was just 20mins off from there. And at this spot you get to see the Shesha parvatha peak and Kumara Parvatha is hidden behind that.
On reaching Bhataramane at around 3PM, we were welcomed with the aroma of food and of course a lot of other trekking groups who were headed to Kumara Parvatha that same day.
We washed our faces with cold stream water and got to down to eating the most delicious and simple veg food of hot rice and sambar , pickle and buttermilk. It was the best food ever !! After lunch we had a small siesta and explored the gardens of Mr.Bhatt. There are 2 man-made View points just about 200mts from the Bhattaramane and we went to watch the sun set for the day.
As we saw the sun go by, we savored Haldiram’s Bhel Puri and posed for the photographers 🙂 It was an ideal, calm and peaceful evening as we watched the sun SET in all its glory and so did our tiredness and exhaustion.
We later had tea at the Bhatt’s house and packed only the essentials for the next day as it was gonna be a long one. We packed our bags with loads of water, energy bars, dry fruits, a few snacks and of course glucose and electoral. We had our dinner and hit the sack early. We planned to start early and cover as much distance as possible before the sun was up and would bake us all royally. And owing to our exhaustion the entire day under the sun we wanted to make the most of the early morning weather.
We started at 5:30 AM. About 300m from the house there is the Forest dept. office where we have to give our credentials and pay a registration fee. Once it was done we started off our climb. The weather was perfect and the view was beautiful and the place was serene. We held onto a good pace and were able to reach Kallu mantapa which is an open stone pillared structure and has a water source nearby the place and is a camping place for some trekkers.
It is a very steep climb from this point on and the path is very slippery owing to loose sand but there are alternate rocky paths as well which is comparatively easy to tread on. The sun was up and the place was pristine and beautiful. After a few clicks with the moving clouds we reached Shesha Parvatha, this is the peak which is visible from the Subramanya temple. We rested for a while and clicked a few selfies 🙂
The last mile to Kumara Parvatha peak is through a small forest which gives way to a rocky terrain that marks the peak of Kumara parvatha. We reached the peak at 8:30 AM after 3 long hours of trekking. At the peak there is a sacred area of Lord Shiva’s Ling.
We were elated that we made it through the most toughest trek and celebrated with the Cuban coffee. After exploring the peak we came across a View point from where we could see the passing clouds beneath us ! The view was amazing and marvelous.
We basked at that very place for a while before we started our downward trek.
The downward trail was more tough and the sun was now in all its glory. We were thoroughly exhausted by the time we reached Bhattaramane. We had the sumptuous meal again and rested for a bit and then started off to reach kukke. Because of the heat it was getting all the more difficult and strenuous. We rested at frequent intervals and kept ourselves hydrated time and again and that kept us on the move. And we made it to the bottom around 6:30 PM.
The entire trek was challenging but the strenuous trek did have its perks, for the view at the top was just beautiful ! And the people with whom I trekked along were brilliant and could not have done it without them. Highlight was the “Swachh Bharat” Initiative which was being taken up quite seriously by a couple of them in our group. And Kudos to them for all the patience and effort !
I thoroughly enjoyed the trek though it was exhausting. The view and the company was the icing on the cake and made it all the more awesome!
Tips to trekkers:
Carry a light backpack, more fluids( Glucose, Electoral is a must), a head torch, a cap, trekking stick.
Best bet is to reach Bhattaramane on Day 1 and stay there and take on the peak and way back on Day 2
“Believe in yourself, take on your challenges, dig deep within yourself to conquer fears. Never let anyone bring you down. You got to keep going”.- Chantal Sutherland
“It is always the same with mountains. Once you have lived with them for any length of time, you belong to them. There is no escape.” ― Ruskin Bond, Rain in the Mountains: Notes from the Himalayas I truly agree to the above quote. I have fallen in love with the Himalayas. It was always my dream to trek the Himalayas (on top of my bucket list), to be amongst the mighty and majestic mountains and to be lost in their magnificence. I am elated that I got an opportunity to do so. Goecha La trek ……… the name resounded in my ears when my friend asked “Would you be joining?” My answer went from hmmm to NO!!!!!! And I went on with my so called life!!!!!!!! But the day I turned a year older, I asked myself … What is it that I have achieved or cherished doing in my life or have I done anything from my Bucket list? Well the answer was evident …… I took a couple of weeks to call my friend again and ask if it was too late for me to join ….. well all he said was ” Book your flight tickets ASAP …. you are in ” . And thus started the most amazing journey of my life!!!!!!!!!!! The GOECHA LA trek GOECHA LA or GOECHA PASS is a Himalayan mountain pass in the state of Sikkim. At an elevation of 16,200 ft, Goecha La serves as the gateway to Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. Sikkim is a wonderful place to be. It is the abode of the Mt. Kanchenjunga- the third largest mountain in the world, nestled in lush landscapes, rolling mountains , breath-taking views and it just feels like you are seeking a different god or in other words seeking yourself!!!!! 😉 We were a group of 11 (experienced & novice)trekkers. I am a novice with High altitude treks. So I was although more paranoid, excited and impatient to start the journey. Well we started off the 9 day trek to Goecha La. We reached Yuksom, which was once the capital of Sikkim. It is a small village in West Sikkim at an elevation of 6000ft with few houses, monasteries, hotels and restaurants. It has a population of around 1690 people. And it becomes crowded during the trekking seasons. The nearest airport is at Bagdogra in West Bengal and then you can travel to Yuksom from Bagdogra via Siliguri(WB). On reaching Yuksom, we gathered for an early dinner at 6:30 PM, the weather was cold, chilling and there was a light drizzle as well. Below is the restaurant/eat-out that we gathered at. We were briefed by our team lead about the Do’s and Don’ts of high altitude trekking.
We were famished and ordered Maggi, Thukpa(Tibetan noodle soup- popular dish in Sikkim), Momos, Soup , pakodas. And then went for a stroll and it was getting colder by the hour . We had planned for a jog and work out early in the morning. But the next morning we woke up to the rain gods growling and roaring. Eventually after the rain stopped we did work out and then had breakfast of parathas, tea, omelette. A few of us explored an estate which was quiet and rustic. After a short nap in the afternoon, we went to see the oldest monastery in Sikkim -Dubdi monastery . The small trek took us around 20 mins to reach the top. The path was very slippery due to the green moss. And as we reached the top , we could see an old monastery which was being renovated and was closed. We spent an hour around the monastery just soaking ourselves in the light breeze & serenity.
That evening we geared up for our trek of 9 days. The aim was to carry only the essentials and to have a very light bag. Because as we tend move higher the oxygen is less and it makes us all the more weary and hence having a light back pack helps. I think I had a lot many essentials and my backpack was way heavy. 😛 We had 2 guides, 2 cooks and 3 porters joining us. A few Yaks to carry the tents, groceries and sleeping bags as well. Day 1: Yuksom(5700ft)- Sachen(7200ft) We started the trek at 11:00 AM, the initial 20 mins is a walk through the village of Yuksom and then the trail passes around the mountain. After about 30 mins we reached the Kanchendzonga National Park which is the gateway to Goechala. Post which the trail runs through lush mountains and bridges.
On the way around the mountains
It is a steep climb up . Around 3PM it started raining heavily, we were famished by the end of it and just as we were nearing Sachen, one of the guides got us hot tea and biscuits which was an elixir. And we reached Sachen – our next base camp at around 4pm. Had a quick lunch at 5pm. (Hot maggi and Poori). We did get to meet a lot of people from various countries- Germany, Australia, New Zealand. We then went to our tent and didn’t want to get out as it was raining cats and dogs. And as we had nothing much to do we hit the sack. I got up in the wee hours of the morning and as I went out of the tent , the rain had stopped and I could see an amazing view of the sky – it was bejeweled with stars. It was a brilliant sight that I will forever cherish.
Day 2: Sachen(7200ft)-Bhakim(8600ft)-Tshoka(9650ft) The following day we had a quick breakfast(Bread , Omelette & Boiled Potato). We started by around 9:30AM, the trail runs through a bridge and then it is a gradual climb through the oak forests. We reached Bhakim around 1 PM , that was kind of the last point where you get the network. Rested for a while and then got going. It is a steep climb with many ups and downs. Reached Tshoka around 3:15 PM. We freshened up and had Khichdi which was like a feast for us tired souls. And then went for a small walk to the Tshoka monastery which faces a small pond . The night was getting colder and we slept listening to wonderful songs and guitar being played by the other trekking group.
Day 3: Tshoka(9650ft)-Phedang(12050ft)-Dzongri(12980ft) The toughest and a beautiful trail was upon us. We started our trek at 8:30am after fueling ourselves with bread and jam. The path is beautiful as it is a log trail and when in April-May the trail is filled with rhododendrons. The highlight of the trek was Yaks -they were always coming towards me(probably because of the color of my jacket), it was funny as most of the times we waited for the Yaks to pass by. But we did enjoy the trail as it was cool and serene. We reached Phedang by 1pm and had our light lunch snack”Boiled egg and Boiled potato” . Rested for a while and then embarked upon the steepest climb. But the view was breathtaking, we were on top of one of the mountains and could get a view of other mountains as well. It was surreal an experience. On nearing the Dzongri trekkers hut we could see many mountain ranges and it was breath-taking. We stayed in the trekkers hut this time and it was very very very cold probably below 0 deg C in the night. And out came our thermals to the rescue.
View from our tents at Tshoka
On reaching Dzongri, Thansing, Prek Chu River in the background
Day 4:Dzongri Top We got up early in the morning around 4:30AM to go watch the sunrise. The dzongri top is at a feet of about 13000. We reached just in time for the sunrise but the clouds played hide and seek and we could not get a clear view of Kanchenjunga. We came back, rested and spent the day at Dzongri just to get acclimatized to the weather.
Day 5: Dzongri(12980ft)-Kokchurang(12096ft)-Thansing(12894ft) So here the comes my favourite trail. I just dream of it every day and feel like getting teleported to this place every now and then. We started our trek at 8:30 AM and the trail was through lush meadows. You could catch a view of Mt. Pandim but it was covered amongst the clouds but nevertheless seemed majestic and close. The trail is one of the best , I was totally in a different world altogether. And one scary descent was upon me , had to trek down one of the mountains which was way too slippery and was winding sharply. But did it and reached Kokchurang. Here you can see the Prek Chu river flowing with all its might and the view is brilliant. We finally reached Thansing and luckily got the trekkers hut. On one side are snow clad mountains and on the other a black stony mountain and you get to catch a glimpse of Mt.Kanchenjunga. The view in the night is amazing- it is filled with zillions of stars and Mt. Pandim is brightly lit by the moon light. The picture of it is below.
Prek Chu River, Kokchurang
Day 6: Thansing(12894ft)-Lamuney(13693ft) This trail was the shortest and the most sublime one. And not to forget it was one our friends birthday as well and he was lucky enough to celebrate the day at an amazing place . The trail is next to the Prek Chu river and the flora reminded me of “Lord of the Rings”. It was truly wonderful: the path, the river, the sky, the weather, music .The mountains get closer and the terrain becomes rocky as we go ahead. It took 3 hours for us to reach Lamuney. We helped the porters to pitch the tents. And the weather was very cold and windy. We had lunch – Maggi and Papad. And then hit the sack pretty early as we had to wake up by 1:30 AM the following day.
Day 7: Lamuney(13693ft)- Goechala(16000ft)-Lamuney(13693ft)-Thansing(12894ft) THE D-DAY I woke up to the most amazing & memorable sight : A star-studded sky, zillions of stars just so close to you and the snow clad mountains were brightly shining in the moon-light. I was just mesmerized by the beauty of it. The scene is captured in my memory forever. And not to forget the cold, I am sure it was way below 0 deg C. Had – Lemon tea and biscuits and started off for the Pass. We started around 2:30 AM and had to reach the first view point before the Sunrise. The path goes right next to the Samiti Lake but we couldn’t see the Lake and could just hear the waves. Some of us did lose our way as it was dark and the path was winding. But eventually we held on to the path and were just in time on one of the mountains to catch the beauty of the Kanchenjunga as it had turned golden(Literally) by the first rays of the sun.The experience- inexplicable. It was just out of the world an experience, if this is called heaven – then I made it !!!!!! It was really cold and all I could hear was the breeze and nothing else.
A few of us returned from the first view point.( I had the chills and fever and didn’t want to risk the extra mile). The others did go to the Second view point and the Pass which was covered with Snow.
Kanchenjunga as seen from View Point 2
A few us started our way back to Lamuney. It was a very beautiful sight of the ranges as we couldn’t see the beauty of it in the wee hours of the morning. And we walked past Samiti Lake. Its a glacial lake which is turquoise in colour. We rested for a while and were lost in the beauty of the lake and the ranges around. And we did see a herd of Deer which were grazing on one of the ranges.I can tell you, we were drunk by the beauty that surrounded us. We finally reached Lamuney by 10:30 AM and waited for the others to come.
Near Samiti Lake , a herd of deer passing by on one of the ranges
And started off our journey to Thansing as the weather in Lamuney was getting worse and cold. We started around 5:30 PM and reached Thansing by 6:45PM. We were happy to have rice and dal for dinner 😛
Day 8: Thansing(12894ft)-Kokchurang(12096ft)-Phedang(12050ft)-Tshoka(9650ft) We started our trek around 8:30AM , the view at Kokchurang is marvelous , the weather was sunny and you could get a view of the ranges and the pine trees. We didn’t take the route towards Dzongri but instead we went through a forest and reached Phedang by 2:30 PM. And our mini lunch of “Boiled Potato & Boiled Egg”. We rested a bit and then started off through the log trail to reach Tshoka. It is a steep descent and we covered the distance pretty soon. We reached around 4:00 PM. Stayed in the Trekkers hut and we celebrated our achievement with Chicken and Rice and of course special cake for the birthday boy. Ohh it was awesome !!!! And we did make calls to our near and dear ones after 5 whole days as soon as we got the network.
Day 9: Tshoka(9650ft)-Sachen(8600ft)-Bhakim(7200ft)-Yuksom(5700ft) We were all elated with our achievement and probably wanted to reach back to civilization ;P. I enjoyed the final trek back to Yuksom. I just rejoiced every single moment as it was going to be the last day amongst the mighty Himalayas . Was soaked in the beauty , the flora and fauna , rivers, bridges, steep trails. And finally made it to Yuksom about 6PM.
And got down to having food-varieties of food I must say. And then freshened ourselves and put on our party caps. We did have loads of fun, partied hard and finally slept on a bed after what it seemed like ages. And everything seemed to be a luxury 🙂 Those were the most amazing days of my life. When I recall the entire journey , it just feels like I have lived a Life!!!!!!! 🙂 The beauty, the tranquility, the rolling hills, cool streams, bridges, the star-studded sky, lush landscapes, feeling of being one with nature and yourself- what more can I ask !!!! And I think I am blessed with Inner Peace 🙂 PS : For all of you out there- A humble request – Please make a trip to the Himalayas at least once in your lifetime, you got to experience it to believe the beauty, the mesmerism, the serenity, finding yourself, being one with nature and for the feeling that your so called routine life is nothing compared to the experience out there amongst the mighty and majestic Mountains, beauty of the mountains, rolling hills , rivers, brilliant landscapes. So add it to your Bucket list or your wish list and go for it before it is too late !!!!!!! Wanna end it with a few lines from Kabir and also the “Fakiri Song”Vishal Dadlani & Neeraj Arya- Kabir’s Cafe from the Dewarists. It defines the Vagabond/traveller in you 🙂
MAAN LAGO MERA YAAR FAKIRI MEIN !!!!!
The joy of Ram’s remembrance Can’t be found in plenty My dwelling is the city of love Became beautiful with patience My Mind rejoices in simplicity My mind has taken to living free A bowl and staff is all I carry Yet my kingdom stretches wherever I see Your body will bite the dust one day Why strut about, so smug, so vain? My Mind rejoices in simplicity My mind has taken to living free Says Kabir, Listen seekers The Lord is found in contentment My Mind rejoices in simplicity My mind has taken to living free !!!!!!